Comments on: Seven Essentials to Growing Tomatoes

By: Dave

Dave — Mon, 04 Aug 2008 21:42:10 +0000

In my experience, I’ve found Cherry Sugary, Sweet Baby Girl, and Early Girl to be my personal favorites. I’ve probably only tried about a dozen varieties, so I’m sure there are lots of other good ones out there – perhaps someone else can add their comments…

As for the blossom end rot, this occurs when your tomato plant can’t get enough calcium. This doesn’t necessarily mean that there isn’t enough calcium in your soil, but more likely its that your plant can’t absorb the calcium in the soil quickly enough for it’s needs. This can be happen with un-even watering. If you don’t do this already, you should consider a) mulching around your plants to conserve moisture, b) watering your plants on a timer to ensure consistent, adequate water. Hope this helps!

By: Doris Rodgers

Doris Rodgers — Mon, 04 Aug 2008 06:04:39 +0000

Enjoyed your article. Great tips. Can you recommend some good varieties of greenhouse tomatoes for Alberta? I am growing mine in ‘Maxi-Caps’ in the greenhouse. My favorites so far are Sungold, Sugary and Juliette.
I am trying some heirloom varieties this year as well. Paul Robeson, German Red are doing well but some of the others are not. Some varieties are getting serious blossom end rot and others are not setting on much fruit. Any advice you could offer would be appreciated. Thanks.

By: Jennifer

Jennifer — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 23:18:25 +0000

great post…I think I ran out of the house and had to prune my tomatoes immediately! It sure helps!

I would love to see a post on how to prevent worms/moths in radishes and turnips

as well…..

watering systems….greenhouse and outdoors! We bought some soaker hoses at Canadian Tire but they all seem ot have holes in them…Not impressed!

I am so impressed with your greenhouse tomatoes…..I need a greenhouse NOW!…..

By: Dave

Dave — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:18:21 +0000

Be sure that the manure you add is fully composted before you add it to existing plants. If the manure is ‘home-grown’, it should be composted for at least six months. If it’s store bought manure, it’s most likely already composted. Fully composted manure can be safely added to the soil around your plants. (Ideally, fall is the best time to add manure when there is no threat of burning your plants with fresh manure. Plus you can mix it into your soil without disturbing your plants.)

Hail damage is usually white spots or tears with brown edges. From what you described to me, it doesn’t sound like hail damage. If you could take a picture and send it in to me, I could probably give you a better idea of the cause. (email to dave@albertahomegardening.com)

By: Linda Ouimet

Linda Ouimet — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:12:56 +0000

Dave, thanks for your reply, I really do enjoy reading your website.
I am a new gardener, and are growing tomatoes in raised boxes that
are attached to the deck, in which I added the dirt that you discussed
in a previous website. Can I put the manure, which is a mix of cow,
chicken, horse, etc. on top of the plant, or will it burn it ? The other
question I had about the discoloring of the leaves, could it be from
hail, as we have had our share of it?

By: Dave

Dave — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 21:46:54 +0000

Linda, let’s see if I can answer all of your questions. First, the leaf curl – this is often a sign of stress and is quite common in outdoor tomato plants. If it were in a controlled environment like a greenhouse, then you might have other problems, but most often this harmless to your plants. There could be many causes – a severe pruning, over watering, transplant stress, etc…
The color issue is likely a deficiency of some sort – I would guess maybe iron. Plain ol’ manure should clear this up.
As for whether or not to fertilize your “home-made” dirt, you shouldn’t need fertilizer in the first year, but if you add a handful per square foot each year, that should be sufficient. However, depending on what compose material you use, your soil could be deficient of some things and fertilizer may in need.
And lastly, I would still remove suckers on determinate tomatoes. As well, for indeterminate tomatoes, at about one month before frost, I would pinch out the growing tip at the top and let the plant put all of it’s energy into existing tomatoes.
Hope this helps!

By: Linda Ouimet

Linda Ouimet — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 19:37:29 +0000

One more question in regards to your tomato growing tips, when
you are growing determinate tomatoes do you still remove suckers,
and if you do will that hurt the plant?

By: Linda Ouimet

Linda Ouimet — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 19:33:04 +0000

I read your articles earlier and decided to create my own dirt, with 1/3
peatmoss, 1/3 vermiculite, and 1/3 compost from 3 different sources.
I am growing flowers, tomatoes and zucchini, and cucumbers in this
soil. I am finding that the leaves of the tomatoes are taking on a lighter green color and have curling of the leaves and the leaves of
the tomatoe plants are streaked a light green to white color. Can
you help me to figure out what is happening with them? The tomatoes are growing well, other than one beefsteak tomato looks
like it has many scratches on the bottom of it. I also was wondering
whether I need to fertilize everything or not with such good soil?